Mister Donut or American source of sugar in Japan (Marièke POULAT)

Green tea. Azuki. Dango. You adore them. And then, it happens to you that you are fed up with these Japanese sweets without sugar... that you only want something else, different, with some fat and sugar, the kind of thing really bad for your health but so good... the whole lot brought with a good coffee for a little sweet break in the morning or, after, as a snack around 5 p.m. 

Most coffee shops are offering you their help to fulfill this little temporary crisis: Doutor, Starbucks Coffee, Caffe Veloce, or also Café de Crié, and other chains of stores which pretends to sell French pastries... but there is also Mister Donut, an American chain, which exists in many countries and notably in Japan, and which is loved by Japanese people. I am not be able to judge if these donuts are really American donuts or not: I have never tasted an authentic American donut... The only thing I know is that I appreciate this chain, even if it does not serve traditionnal Japanese food and it is not recognized by everybody.

Mister Donut is a chain of stores from the USA at the beginning, founded in 1956, nowadays very known in the USA and in many other countries, as in Japan, where it has arrived since 1983 and where it is really popular. In 2006, there were more than 1400 coffee shops of this label all around Japan... An other way to say that you should not have too much difficulties to lay your hands on one of these stores whose name is written in English « Mister Donut », most often in red on a black background.As a proof that this is not particularly distinguished food, most of these shops are located close to train stations and in areas highly frequented by young people... even if they are not their unique customers.

The first time you pass the door of one of these places, the name of this chain, Mister Donut, becomes obvious to you... Indead, you are propulsed in front of a showcase full of donuts of all shapes, all flavours and all colors. Sugar, chocolate, green tea, in the shape of a cat, with a whole or without... all the different alternatives exists and you are the one supposed to decide which one you want¹. A paradise for those who like to eat sweets ^^... even though some people are quite critical against the quality of the donuts. However, it is not my point of view: I really appreciated the donuts I tasted and I can give a special mention to the grean tea flavoured and chocolate coated one, even if its green colour can be a little weird at the first sight ;)

After waiting, more or less depending on the hour you enter the shop, it is time to make your choice... An advice: use the waiting time to think of the donut you are going to take because there are a lot of them ^^ and also because all the name are written in Japanese (in Katakana, actually: with only some Japanese basics you should be able to find out what their content is). Don't panic, however, if you do not speak or understand a single word of Japanese: it is possible to show the number of the donut you are interested in and an English version of the menu can be presented to you if you also want a drink. Besides, there exists a breakfast set until 11 a.m. including a drink and a donut, and some of the shops of the chain offer lunch sets with pastas and other dishes but I have never tried... Why I would come to Mister Donut to eat something else than a donut ?

Once your command is done and your purse a little lighter of some yens (it will cost you around 110 and 150 yens for a donut and between 180 and 230 yens for a drink, while the cost of breakfast set is 322 yens for whatever drink you want and a donut under 136 yens), you can chose between taking away your command or staying in the shop. As all Japanese shops, it is quite small and organised in order to offer most places reserved to isolated consumers, as it is common to go to a coffee shop or to a restaurant alone here. The space is also sometimes parted in two parts: smoker and non-smoker. It depends on the hour, but there can be more or less people, and if many places are left, you will be allowed to stay during a long period of time... the only limit being the absence of the Wifi, at least in the places I went in until now.

Then, even if this chain is a little expensive, you should be able to enjoy a pleasant time with your friends or alone. No need to search for healthy or excellent food here: this is not what this kind of chain is expected to sell and this is not what it pretends to sell. However, if you are in a need of some sweet with actual sugar and fat, Mister Donut should be easily able to support you. Well... Almost easily, I should say instead... as it is really complicated to chose which donut is tempting you the most ^^

POULAT Marièke

*****

1)  For those who are on a diet or watching, most of the donuts contain from 200 to 300 calories, according to the website  of the brend (only available in Japanese however... but you only have to click on the pictures you want).

     http://www.misterdonut.jp/m_menu/donut/index.html

Econo Inn in Kyoto (Marièke POULAT)

To travel in Japan can be expensive. Very expensive. Too expensive ? If you take into account the price of transportation, of meals, of hostels and of visits, your purse can soon be scared. Kyoto, even though less expensive than Tokyo, obeys the same rules. However, as it is the former Imperial Capital of Japan, with all the treasures that it implies, it is complicated to think of going to Japan without spending some days there. So, how to enjoy your trip without make a hole in your budget ? If I do not say that I have the recipe to make a trip which does not cost anything, I can give you the adress of a hostel which could help you to limit your expenses... Convinient and not so expensive if you compare it with the services it offers, the Econo Inn is quite interesting. On top of offering affordable prices, this little familial hostel is located close to Kyoto Station and is really easy to find, while being very quiet.

For about 3 000 yens a night (30€) per personne, twenty-one Western-style rooms for one, two or three people, and one Japanese-style tatami room for four to eight people, are available. I did not enter the Japanese-style room but I can assert that the Western-style one for three people was clean. Television, yukatas, shampoings or even a hair-dryer (that you have to ask to the reception) were at our disposal... some interesting services for 3 000 yens a night, above all when you know that the price can be reduced: room rates decrease with lenght of stay, more informations on that matter being available for consultation on the website¹.

On this latter, you will be able to find an access map. The hostel is located on the road Kawaramachi, at fifteen minutes from Kyoto Station and at around the same time from the famous Gion's district, which is really convinient. Even though adresses and road's names are not always written in Japan, which can sometimes be a problem when you have to find a place, this does not have any effect here as it is really super easy to lay your hands on it: Kawaramachi's road is one of the main streets of Kyoto and the neon sign of the hostel, blue and bright, can be seen from very far. Moreover, check-in time (from 3 p.m.) and check-out time (until 11 a.m.) are wide and so really convinient... while there is not any curfew when you are in possession of the keys: the entrance is open 24 hours on 24.

According to the asked price, it is not served any dinner or breakfast, but coffee and tea are available in the hall. This room, divided between the reception and some tables, allows you to settle there to eat, discuss, watch the television, which is almost always on, or also surf on the internet. A computer connected on the web is freely available 24 hours on 24. It is finally interesting to notice that it is also possible to access internet from the rooms on your own laptop: there is the Wifi in the hostel and you only have to ask for the code at the reception to be able to access the network.

The available services are quite numerous and always delivered with a smile. This is an old couple of Japanese people who holds this hostel, sometimes assisted by some students. This must be their part-time job as it is the norm in Japan for most of the students. Always ready to do service, you can ask either a pen, an information, an umbrella or even the possibility of letting your bagages before the check-in time or after the check-out time without disturbing them: smiles are always there. And this is even better if you can speak some words of Japanese... even if it is also possible to talk to them in an easy English. Their English is quite weak but enough to obtain basical informations. Besides, the website is either in Japanese and in English and my friends, from France, did not encounter any difficulty while reserving through it.²

To conclude, this little hostel is highly recommended to those who, despite of a small budget, want to enjoy an agreable stay in Kyoto and a welcome as warm.

POULAT Marièke

*****

1) http://www.econo-inn-kyoto.com

2) info@econo-inn-kyoto.com

Cheese ! Or Purikura in Japan (Marièke POULAT)

Thanks to Amélie Poulain¹, we were able to see an another facet of photo boothes... From very bothersome, and even particularly awfull for those who have to make an ID photo (yes, you know, the one on which you can even begin to smile...), they have become a lot more romantic... Well... Japanese people have done better than Amélie. Indead, in Japan, photo boothes have become an entertainment for itself, not only a place where you can make pictures in group (and even in a big (big) group), but also a place where you can customise them.

Indead, if there still exist some photo boothes as we know them all around the world to make official photos, in Japan you will also be able to find an another version a lot funnier in most of the Game Centers, Commercial Centers and districts where younger people are meeting themselves. In that cabins, called Purikura, decorated by huge pictures and closed by long curtains, no adjustable seat in the center and a wider space to the one of our photo boothes: these cabins are about 4 square meters. On a side, a touch-sensitive screen is toped by an objective. Around them, on the same side, many lamps are flooding the room by light, making us more beautiful... and, on the opposite side, a white wall, in order to allow the creation of special effects... well... of background effects.

Due to the size of the room, a group of 8 people, and even more, but you will have to pack, can enter it. You insert 400¥ with coins of 100¥ and it's all: a voice begins to give you the instructions to follow as a real photo booth, in japanese of course ^^... But no need to worry: you don't need to understand to know what you have to do: you only have to choose the backgrounds, the frames and the light effects you want for the next photos... Attention, however, there is a limited time to make your choose which depends of the cabins. Once your choice is made, you have to be reactive. The number of photos depends of the cabins too, but it often varies from 4 to 6, without a pause: so here again, get ready ! Hurry to take different exposures and... DON'T look at the SCREEN ! (look at the OBJECTIVE !) ;)

Once the photos are done, you have to go out and a new work begins: you have to customise the photos you have just taken. On the back of the cabin, you will found out to new touch-sensitive screens hidden by other curtains. They are equiped with stilettos which allow you to add text, images, different background or even different type of make-up, as mascara, hair color... A bow in the hairs here, a hat there... well, no. Sun glasses finally... And, why not some hearts ? And the date ! Have you put the date ? Then, you can modify everything ! Moreover, due to the luminosity of the room, the skin is clear and clean and you will look at your best: no more acne and dark circles... Not to mention that if you are from occidental type, you will certainely be really surprised by the size of your eyes: as most of asian people do not like to much their slanting eyes, they are enlarged... Do not ask me how it works, I do not know... but it actually works and if you have already big eyes, then they will finally just be huge ! In comparison, the eyes of the innocent manga girls are nothing ! O-O

Then, once again in given time, you will have to type in your e-mail adress: then, you wil be able to download one of the photos you made on your phone (yes, you receive emails on your phone, not sms... I will have to write a new article about that ^^). After that, the photos will be printed out. While waiting, most of the cabins offers a little puzzle or game. After some seconds, two sets of your photos come out. If you are numerous, which is often the case, it is possible to choose different size for the photos and to use the available scisors, to share the photo which are most of the time going to be placed in the purses which are already full of them...

Yes, to make purikura is very popular in Japan... and you will love it without any doubt. Firstly, because for once, you will look at your best on a photo. The manga effect of the depiction is really interesting and this is always a pleasure to not look pale (or worst, green...) and to see diseappear your spots... isn't it ? And, secondly, because it is really fun to make group pictures (go down, go down I said ! We can't see you on the picture !) and to customise all the pictures in some seconds (Hurry up ! Only two seconds are left ! Hurry ! You only made one eye for now !!). Then, it is to do and do again throughout your visits, as you should become more an more gifted: at the end of your trip, you should have enough time to customise correctly all the pictures ^^

POULAT Marièke

*****

1 A famous French movie realised by J.-P. Jeunet in 2001.

The Animate Tower in Ikebukuro (Marièke POULAT)

To the question « Why are you interested in Japan ? », most of the foreigner students answer that this is Japanese culture which attracted them before coming in Japan... And, if some of them are fond of J-Pop and Idoles, or of the folklore and old cultural traditions as Ikebana, Tea Ceremony or Calligraphy, most of them are deeply interested in mangas, animes and video games. Actually, I am one of them. And this is why I am so happy of having discovered the Paradise... in this building of height floors named Animate.

This paradise for Otakus (or Geeks) but also for all mangas, animes or video games' fans can be found in Ikebukuro. This shop is one of a chain, Animate, which sells products related to these different medias in Japan and in Taipei, in Taiwan. There are 38 shops in total (and only one of them is in Taiwan) and the one of Ikebukuro is the main one. It is really close to Ikebukuro Station, right in front of the Sunshine City, this building of 60 floors which towers above the district.

The Animate Tower distinguishes itself thanks to its blue vertical boards, all around it and at its top, on which is written the name of the brend: Animate. As it name says it, it is a tower: a tall building of eight flours but really narrow. For instance, there is not any escalator and these is with your legs that you will have to go to the top of it through its eight flours where an impressive amount of diverse items from lastest mangas, animes or video games pile up.

The first flour is the one of the magazines, the food related to mangas, animes and video games (well... of the snacks...) and vending machines: against 100 or 200¥, in fonction of the ojects and of the licence, you will receive a plastic bowl which contains a gadget. From the second flour to the fourth included, you can find the books. As they are in Japanese and as you can find most of them in all the book shops, I did not stop and I carried on going up. Indead, I was more interested in the fifth and sixth flours, respectively dedicated to character goodies and figurines... Goodies being notably keyrings, plastic folders or game cards with the head of your favourite characters, while the figurines have many shapes and sizes. There is for instance the interesting concept of traded figurines, notably offered by Square Enix: this is a good way to obtain not expensive figurines (under 1000¥) but not always the one you want. Indead, you can buy a box which contain one of the figurine of a serie of five or six figurines, without knowing the one you are buying... Then, you will have to find someone which is ok to trade or to accept the one you got. Finally, there are two last floors, the seventh and the eighth, which offer CDs and DVDs.

The biggest interest of that kind of shop is the novelty of the products wich are sold. An interesting system in this building is the existence of posters announcing the next products and some bar codes linked to these posters to let you reserve the products you are interested in. However, there is also an inconvenient to this novelty. Most of the products are changing really fast in fonction of the popularity of the mangas and of their actuality. An example ? Today, the popularity of Naruto seems to be slowing down in Japan, notably in constrast with One Piece which is omnipresent, and only a little space was dedicated to it... a plastic folder, three postcards and four keyrings and that was all... Same assessment for Square Enix's products. Only the last released games were present. It was impossible to find products from before Final Fantasy XII (except the main characters, as Tidus, Cloud or Squall).

To conclude, I think this is useless to say that this kind of shop offered expensive prices (do not be surprised to have to pay around 1000¥ for a keyring or a cellphone decoration)... which does not prevent it to be overcrowded and to be visited by Japanese and foreigner people. As this is a place where, if you are interested in mangas or even Japanese culture, you can stay during many hours dawdling between books, figurines and diverse items. This is the paradise, as I have already said to you ^^

Marièke POULAT

Valentine Day and White Day in Japan (Marièke POULAT)

Just like Christmas, which is a typically occidental event because of its religious origins and which has been adapted by Japanese people, many events exist in Japan under their occidental names but with totally different practices... That's for instance the case of the Valentine Day, lovers' day, celebrated the 14^th of February, which takes a really different form from what exists in France and which is combined with the 14^th of March, the White Day.

As all imported event, Valentine Day does not have an actual Japanese name. Only a translation in phonetic alphabet, the katakanas, from its English name: the Valentine Day is thus the バレンタインデー. More than its name, the event also keeps the same date, the 14^th of February, the same meaning, as it is still a particular day for lovers, and the same commercial side... and maybe even stronger than what we have in France. Indead, from the 1^st of February, and even sometimes a little before, shops offers Valentine Day's products... as chocolates, gifts, but also well decorated windows for hearts are everywhere.

However, the practice is completely different. If, in France, it is usual to send letters to the one you love, to make presents, to go to the restaurant, or to make your declaration or even your proposal in the 14^th of February, in Japan, Valentine Day is celebrated differently. Here, the responsability of the Valentine Day is not shared. All the work is for the womankind... But, don't worry ladies: men are going to get even with some presents, one month after, for the White Day, in Japanese, the ホワイトデー, a day which does not have any equivalent in France... or even in Europe.

On the 14^th of February, Japanese girls must offer chocolates to all the men for who they care. For instance, they can offer some chocolates to the men of their family, or to their friends and colleagues, and, of course, to their husband/boyfriend or to their love interest as a declaration. And, if they really want to respect the tradition, they have to make these chocolates by themselves... As the molds sold in most of the shops show it. In Tokyo Hands, big departement stores of Tokyo, which are notably in Shinjuku, Shibuya or in Ginza, there is a whole flour entirely dedicated to these molds which can have the classic shape of a heart to the exotic one of a colomb... Finally, it is usual to offer these chocolates in a box with a card, as we do it in France.

In compensation, if compensation exists in love... but there we enter a much more philosophical subject for this trivial article, men have to respond on the day of the White Day. This event, nonexistent in France, has been celebrated in Japan since 1980, but also in South Korea and Taiwan. Invented in Japan, even though its origins are quite fuzzy, it seems that it was at the beginning a way to ''repay their debt'' to the women who has bought them a present. It has been called the White Day for it is first a brend of white chocolate which got its hands on this commercial opportunity... before the practice has extended and that a white present has became the norm. Nowadays, if there are some rules (as the giri-choco offered as a thanks but without any love's feelings, or as the Sanbai Gaeshi (or « Thrice the return ») which implyes that the present offered must be three time bigger than the present received...), exchanged presents for Valentine's Day are similar to those which are given in France (as jewelleries, perfums...).

Actually, there is not only one Valentine's Day in Japan: Valentine's Day and White Day seem to be combined... which is really interesting for the different industries (of chocolates, but also of jewelleries, for the restaurants...). But, far from these economical issues which break the magic of this day (my romantic side is revealed here...), there exists a different adolescent practice for the White Day... Young men can offer a white ribbon to the girl they like: if she ties it before the end of the day (around her bag, in her hairs, in her clothes...), it means that she shares the same feelings... Isn't this cute, in this world of capitalism ? <3 ^^

Good バレンタインデー

And good ホワイトデー to you all !

Karaoke, an institution in Japan (Marièke POULAT)

If I had to name only one thing that Japanese people love, I would probably say to sing. Yes. All your clichés about Japan and shy Japanese people have just shattered. As many of the parties between friends finish while singing in a Karaoke box... most often with some beer, Umeshu (plum alcohol) or vodka cocktails, obvioulsy. Or how you can spend in Japan your Christmas night with eight people closed in a room of no more than three square meters singing some songs from our youth in English or the lastest singles of fashionable J-Pop singers while drinking some cocktails or soft drinks.

The Karaoke being an institution in Japan, many chains offer their clients to come to sing closed in some boxes with isolated partitions in their buildings. That's why in all the animated districts, frequented by youngs and older people, as Shinjuku, Shibuya, or Takadanobaba, many buildings are illuminated by huge blue hoardings on which is written the significative inscription (at least for those who are able to read the katakanas): « カラオケ » (or Ka-Ra-O-Ke). This is inside these bright buildings that you can practice this national sport.

At the entrance, a reception desk, as in a hostel. There, you have to give the number of people of the group and the lenght of time while you want to sing. A room is then indicated and you have to join it to begin your little concert. The payment is done at the end and doesn't depend on the number of people, but only on the lenght of time spent in singing.

Depending on companies and days, prices vary. On the eve of a national day-off or of holidays, prices increase. Moreover, offered formulas are very different. Some chains offer food and drinks, others serve Nomikai (All you can drink) during the fixed length of time at the beginning. Sometimes, it is also possible to brought some snacks or drinks. Thus, for the Christmas night, a whole night of Karaoke (from 11p.m. to 5a.m.) with a Nomikai (and some candies we brought) cost 2100¥, about 20€, which is quite reasonnable. Here, you can see that Karaokes are opened all overnight: most of them are opened from 10a.m. to 5a.m.... which let those who have missed the last train, which leaves around midnight, and who have to wait until 5a.m. spend a good night for a quite small amount of money (at least in Tokyo...). 

While entering for the first time in this kind of building, you should be particularly suprised by the large number of rooms in a floor... but also in a building, as there exist for instance a room 666 on the 6^th floor. Then, you should be astonished by the size of the room (no more than some square meters) and by its disposition: a large screen in an angle, coaches all around the room and, at the center, a table to put your drinks. Even more impressive, the technical equipment: two microphones, of course, and two ''remotes'' which are some touch-sensitive screens where you can chose the songs you want to sing with a stylet...

And now... Here is the reply you are waiting for: is a foreigner who doesn't speak a single word of Japanese (and obviously who doesn't read it too) able to find out some songs to have fun in a Japanese karaoke ? Well... this is yes ! Thanks to a large choice of songs in English (from the Beattles to the Disney's classics, and as well Britney Spears or the Offsprings), or even in French (even if the choice is less board... but you should be able to find l'Hymne à l'Amour of Edith Piaf and Poupée de Son of France Galles ^^)... and if you know some songs in Japanese and if you are able to read at least the hiraganas and the katakanas, some songs are available with furiganas (those are hiraganas which indicates the reading of the kanjis). 

At the end of the original fixed time, you have to leave. Depending on the companies, music stops when the time is slipped by, or not. Then you will have to keep an eye on your watch or you should be surprised and have to pay the next half-hour. The payment shouldn't be too painfull for an activity in Tokyo: some chains sell 50¥ the half-hour, and most often, the hour costs 300¥.

It is kind of expensive but it really worth it, as it is a lot of fun, and even more if you share the same tastes as your friends, or at least the same musical background ! As there is nothing better than to sing (to yell ?) a piece from your childhood as Part of the World from the Little Mermaid, or from some classics as Somebody to love by Queen, as well as the Beattles' Yellow Submarine.

 

POULAT Marièke

Nomihodai, Nomi-what ? (Marièke POULAT)

All those who have been students or who have lived in a small appartement in their life are aware of this fact... This is complicated to invite some friends to party in an appartement of 10m². A dilemna that Japanese people, students but also older people, also know as the average size of flats in Tokyo is really narrow. So, what can you do ? Be associal, invite only one people at once... Or, find a larger place with a table, some chairs, some food and, even better, something to drink... as to drink is here an institution and beer and sake (rice alcohol) are on the favorite alcohols. As an example, one of the first sentence that you learn in Japanese classes is « Sake o nomimasu » that you can translate by « I drink Sake » or « I drink alcohol » (as sake, in Japanese, means both sake, as rice alcohol, and alcohol). 

Japanese restaurants have well understood their interest and a large offer of places where you can eat and drink with your friends have been created, with different concepts. There are three major formulas: the Tabehodai (All you can eat), the Nomikai (All you can drink) and the Nomihodai, which combines both formulas, as it is a Nomikai and a lot of different dishes to absorb the quantity of alcohol swallowed... In fonction of the chain of restaurants, of the price, of the day of the week, or even of the district (Ginza, the fancy district of Tokyo, is for instance not offering the same services as Takadanobaba, the student district...), the offers are different... There exist, for instance, the innocent Sweet Paradise, where you can eat as cookies and ice creams as you want during one hour and a half for about 1500 ¥, but also some trash nomihodai where beer is flowing and where you can eat all the food you want as it is a self-service (about 2000¥ for two hours). 

If students are fond of this kind of meeting and go there with their friends, their clubs or even sometimes with their families, older people are not left aside. Many Japanese people go there with their colleagues and even with their superiors. However, the reasons to go to a nomihodai are different: the students like to go to nomihodai to have fun and to drink (as having fun and drinking are surprisingly often linked), while the nomihodai can be a working meeting between colleagues... According to a French expatriate, many decisions in the entreprises are taken in that kind of meeting. Of course, older people are also going to nomihodai between friend to have fun and drink, particularly at the end of the year or to celebrate the important events. 

This is difficult to describe exactly what happens in that kind of meetings... If the conventions are easy between friends, where the only goal is to have fun and to drink, it can be more complicated in presence of older people, the « Senpais », which is the title automatically given to the more experienced people in Japan. This situation can occure in the nomihodais organised by the clubs which also invite former members... The conventions are numerous, as the fact that the yongest must take care of the Senpai during the party, the fact that the Senpai must pay more than the others, or the fact that it is not polite to say « no » when the Senpai proposes to refill your glass for the umpteenth time on a row... Conclusion, if you want to « survive » you should drink slowly, by sips, to not empty your glass too quickly. However, to be « gaijin », the Japanese word for « foreigner », can help you as, if you are gaijin, you don't have to follow all of these conventions... but only some of them, as you can't avoid to do a little presentation of yourself (with a special mention if you can do it in Japanese), or to sing a song... Here, the tip is to not drink too much to be able to stand up when your name comes out and to have a song that you can sing quite well. This time, to be a gaijin is not so helpfull as the questions are numerous... and as it is always difficult to explain in some words (and in Japanese) how France and Japan are different... but it is always funny to discover what people think of you country.

Nomihodai, tabehodai and nomikai are commonplace in Japan and belong to Japanese culture. Most of Japanese people go to nomhodai at least once in a month, men going there more often than women. If the omnipresence of alcohol, particularly during Nomihodai and Nomikai, can incommodate, it is interesting to go there at least once. With Japanese friends. Because you will discover an another facet of the personnality of your friends/colleagues (maybe because they have drunk four glasses of beer before which uninhibitate them... but this is an another subject) and because it is a friendly event and, in a certain manner, a really traditionnal one.

POULAT Marièke

 
 
 

The 23rd of December in Japan (Marièke POULAT)

When his Majesty the Heavenly Sovereign of Japan, also known by non-Japanese speakers as Akihito¹, celebrates his birthday, he does not take his people for fools. Not only the 23^rd of December, the day of his birth in 1933, has been a day-off in Japan since he has become Emperor in 1989, but he also opens his residence, the Imperial Palace or Kōkyo in Japanese, to thousands of curious people. Moreover, he takes that event as an opportunity to make some public apparitions from his balcony and to pronounce a speech.

Since his Current Majesty, his other official title, came to the throne, after being enthrone as Crown Prince in 1951, his birthday has become a day-off. He is the 125^th Emperor of Japan, from the line of descent Yamato which has reigned over Japan since -660 BC... a lenght which makes it the oldest dynasty ruling a country in the world. For a long time a sacred and important political character, the Emperor of Japan has a function of representation, as the Queen of England for instance. The Emperor lost all his political power and also his status of « Living God » in 1945. Nowadays, he is recognized as the Head of Japanese State by the other states and he is the symbole of the State and of the unicity of Japanese people.

Venered by his people, symbole of the traditionnal Japan, his statut appears to change, to modernize, little by little. Indead, the current Emperor is the first of the Japanese Emperors who received an education outside the Imperial Palace's compound, because of the Post War 1945 and the new opening-up of Japan on Occident which left a mark on his childhood. Akihito is also the first Emperor who married with a commoner, Michiko Shōda, who has become Empress Michiko of Japan. Later, the couple decided to bring up his childs, without the help of a preceptor. These choices create some debates even though they show a modernisation of the Emperor's function. However, this is a progressive modernisation as we were able to see it at the beginning of the 2000s while there was not any male heir: shall Japan let women come to the throne, while it is still forbidden by the 2^nd Article of the Constitution of 1889 ? This debate finally ends in 2007 without a real political answer, after the birth of the Prince Hisahito, grandson of Akihito, in 2006, which postponed this debate about the absence of a male heir.

Far from this political considerations, the 23^rd of December is a festive day in Japan which let Japanese people but also (and above all...) foreigners see their Emperor and access the Imperial Palace's gardens, while most of them are closed during the year. In this day-off, the several visitors can pass the Nijubashi Bridge and enter the compound of the Palace. This opening happens only twice a year: on the 23^rd of December, as we have already said, and on the 2^nd of January, to celebrate the New Year.

On this 23^rd of December 2010, the Palace was open between 9:30 and 11:20 only, with three programmed apparitions of the Emperor around 10:20, 11:00 and 11:40. After some safety verifications, between bag and body's search, many meters covered almost running while being pushed by the policemen, we arrived to the famous Nijubashi Bridge. On the other side, the compound of the Palace and a huge square. People enter it slowly, caring Japanese flags distributed previously by the staff. The order is necessary and the number of policemen large: it seems complicated to imagine some deviant behavior. Moreover, the Medias are omnipresent in front of the Imperial balcony on the other side of the square: an incident could really give a negative image of the Emperor and of Japan.

The time of Emperor's apparition finally comes and he is really punctual: at 10:20, as it was expected, he appears, welcomed by applause. The crowd is waving its flags while he is greeting those who have come to celebrate his birthday. However, there isn't any cake. On the menu, a plain speech of thanks and of cheerings for the year to come. It is surprisingly short for a political speech and the crowd, who is silencious, makes disappear the flags, while he is speaking. Once his last words are pronounced and the Happy New Year wished, flags appear again during a short while, as a « Good Bye ».

It's already finished. Arrived at 10 in the Palace, we left at 10:45: the Emperor disappears and policemen are making the crowd to leave the square and leading it to the exit, which are the East Garden of the Imperial Palace... those which are opened all the year. But, as they are beautiful, calm, and even if we have already seen them, we do not hesitate to visite them again, as they are constantly changing, thanks to the seasons and the changing colors of the leaves... Thinking that these gardens are only the anteroom of the Imperial estate, it is a pity to reserve such a garden only to the relatives and the people close to the Emperor. Above all as this « Public Opening » is a little disappointing: if I will be able to pride myself on having see the Emperor for real, I did not see very well his Palace and his Estate. But this is how it works. There exist some priviledges that are not going to disappear soon... and with a Prince of only 4 years, it seems difficult to think about marriage to become Empress.  

So, the Emperor will just keep his Palace and his private gardens... and we will just look at Tokyo from the ground and not from a balcony. A seductive plan too, isn't it ?

Marièke POULAT

*****

 

1Even if it is usual to call the Emperor Akihito in Occident, it is considered as a lack of respect in Japan.

Kamakura, an historical city close to Tokyo (Marièke POULAT)

« A city where the unhabitants of Tokyo go during the weekend to relax and also known for its number of temples, shrines and for the Geant Bouddha. » That is, in substance, the definition of Kamakura from an American freshly arrived in Japan and met in this city, after I asked him why he had choosen it. A definition maybe too short to find its place in a guidebook... even if it fits totally Kamakura, as this city is really close to Tokyo, calm, at least on Winter, and known to contain the biggest Bouddha in exterior, the Daibutsu, and more than 60 shrines and temples of different sizes.

Located in the Kanagawa prefecture, on Pacific Ocean's shore, at 50 kilometers in the South-West of Tokyo, only one hour of train separate Kamakura from Tokyo... Well, from Tokyo... To be more precise, from Shinjuku and Shinagawa stations, located on the JR Yamanote line. From these two stations, it is possible to take respectively the Shonan-Shinjuku line (890 ¥ from Shinjuku) or the line Yokosuka (690 ¥ from Shinagawa) in direction of Yokohama and Kamakura. There are two stations in Kamakura, Kita-Kamakura in the North and Kamakura, in the center of the the city. For both of them, the price is the same, the only difference between them being the close sites you are able to visit.

And they are numerous. There are more than temples or shrines in Kamakura ! And you can add to them all the walks that you can do in the upper parts of the city or on the beach, but also the restaurants, the tea saloons, the candies and all the souvenir shops which can appeal the curious and fonf of good food traveller... The specialities are, for instance, the Kamakura-don, a bol of rice covered with tempuras (fried-shrimps), or the pigeon cookies (cookies in shape of pigeons, as their name says it...). That's why it seems complicated to do the tour of the city in only one day, above all if you want to make a halt in the Enoshima Island, in the South-West of Kamakura, which contains a sanctuary of the XIII century.... even if there exist bus and train lines going to Enoshima and in the principal sites of Kamakura (which are a little expensive, though).

Among all these places to visit, all are obviously not as important and if some of them are impossible to miss, you don't have to visit all of them (which is impossible to do anyways). After a trip of two days in Kamakura, I would recommend:

• The famous Daibutsu, whose height is more than 13 meters (200 ¥ + 20 ¥ if you want to enter it... but I didn't think it was so interesting...), as you simply can't miss it: for his excentric and majestuous aspect;
• The bouddhist temple Hasedera (300 ¥), only seperated by some minutes by foot from the Daibutsu, as its architecture, the calm of its environnment and the point of view it offered on Kamakura and on the sea really worth it;
• The Shinto Shrine Tsuruoka Kachimangu, in the city center: thanks to his central location, you will certainely pass through it and admire its charism;
• The Shinto Shrine Zeniarai Benten, close enough to the Daibutsu, because it is beautiful, different from the others shrines and temples as it is located in a cave and, above all, as it can be a lucrative visit ^^ (on the opposite of all the Bouddhist temples which are taking some fees to enter them): if you wash your money in the source of this shrine, it should come back to you in a bigger amount;
• And, to conclude, the Kencho-ji. Not because it is particularly beautiful or different from the others (as, you will have to admit it, most of the shrines and temples are built on the same plans...), but because it offers you a mezmerazing point of view on Mount Fuji if the weather is great and if you have the courage to climb a little after a day of travelling through the treasures of Kamakura.

In our case, we were students avid for adventure but with empty pockets, so we decided to do everything on foot, as the bus can quickly become expensive in Japan, as all the tickets are around 150 to 200 ¥. We also chose to go to a Youth Hostel, the only one of the city, the Kamakura Guest House, which can host until 12 people, 6 males and 6 females. It is a little far from the center of the city and fifteen minutes of walking separates it from the Daibutsu... but its atmosphere is really enjoyable with a host family who doesn't hesistate to stay with the travellers and who offers you the opportunity of spending a friendly evening the feet heated by the Kotetsu, a hot table, before sleeping in a traditionnal room in a futon. The price is expensive, 3000 ¥ for a night, but it really worth it and most of the hostels offer the same prices in Kamakura. You can check-in from 3:00 p.m and you have to check-out arount 10:00 a.m.

To conclude, the 2-days visit of Kamakura is really interesting and during these two days, you will be able to see a lot of historical and impressive places for a reasonnable price if you are coming from Tokyo. The trip cost 8000 ¥ for the transportation, the food (bentos and restaurants sometimes) and the night. However, more than 2 days of visit could turn out to be a little fastidious: unless you are fond of shinotism, bouddhism or architecture, it is possible to grow tired from all the temples and shrines which finally seem to look like the same at the end of the day... A little walk on the upper parts of the city or on the beach is recommended in this city which is, at least during the winter break, very quiet and relaxing.

Marièke POULAT