« A city where the unhabitants of Tokyo go during the weekend to relax and also known for its number of temples, shrines and for the Geant Bouddha. » That is, in substance, the definition of Kamakura from an American freshly arrived in Japan and met in this city, after I asked him why he had choosen it. A definition maybe too short to find its place in a guidebook... even if it fits totally Kamakura, as this city is really close to Tokyo, calm, at least on Winter, and known to contain the biggest Bouddha in exterior, the Daibutsu, and more than 60 shrines and temples of different sizes.
Located in the Kanagawa prefecture, on Pacific Ocean's shore, at 50 kilometers in the South-West of Tokyo, only one hour of train separate Kamakura from Tokyo... Well, from Tokyo... To be more precise, from Shinjuku and Shinagawa stations, located on the JR Yamanote line. From these two stations, it is possible to take respectively the Shonan-Shinjuku line (890 ¥ from Shinjuku) or the line Yokosuka (690 ¥ from Shinagawa) in direction of Yokohama and Kamakura. There are two stations in Kamakura, Kita-Kamakura in the North and Kamakura, in the center of the the city. For both of them, the price is the same, the only difference between them being the close sites you are able to visit.
And they are numerous. There are more than temples or shrines in Kamakura ! And you can add to them all the walks that you can do in the upper parts of the city or on the beach, but also the restaurants, the tea saloons, the candies and all the souvenir shops which can appeal the curious and fonf of good food traveller... The specialities are, for instance, the Kamakura-don, a bol of rice covered with tempuras (fried-shrimps), or the pigeon cookies (cookies in shape of pigeons, as their name says it...). That's why it seems complicated to do the tour of the city in only one day, above all if you want to make a halt in the Enoshima Island, in the South-West of Kamakura, which contains a sanctuary of the XIII century.... even if there exist bus and train lines going to Enoshima and in the principal sites of Kamakura (which are a little expensive, though).
Among all these places to visit, all are obviously not as important and if some of them are impossible to miss, you don't have to visit all of them (which is impossible to do anyways). After a trip of two days in Kamakura, I would recommend:
- The famous Daibutsu, whose height is more than 13 meters (200 ¥ + 20 ¥ if you want to enter it... but I didn't think it was so interesting...), as you simply can't miss it: for his excentric and majestuous aspect;
- The bouddhist temple Hasedera (300 ¥), only seperated by some minutes by foot from the Daibutsu, as its architecture, the calm of its environnment and the point of view it offered on Kamakura and on the sea really worth it;
- The Shinto Shrine Tsuruoka Kachimangu, in the city center: thanks to his central location, you will certainely pass through it and admire its charism;
- The Shinto Shrine Zeniarai Benten, close enough to the Daibutsu, because it is beautiful, different from the others shrines and temples as it is located in a cave and, above all, as it can be a lucrative visit ^^ (on the opposite of all the Bouddhist temples which are taking some fees to enter them): if you wash your money in the source of this shrine, it should come back to you in a bigger amount;
- And, to conclude, the Kencho-ji. Not because it is particularly beautiful or different from the others (as, you will have to admit it, most of the shrines and temples are built on the same plans...), but because it offers you a mezmerazing point of view on Mount Fuji if the weather is great and if you have the courage to climb a little after a day of travelling through the treasures of Kamakura.
In our case, we were students avid for adventure but with empty pockets, so we decided to do everything on foot, as the bus can quickly become expensive in Japan, as all the tickets are around 150 to 200 ¥. We also chose to go to a Youth Hostel, the only one of the city, the Kamakura Guest House, which can host until 12 people, 6 males and 6 females. It is a little far from the center of the city and fifteen minutes of walking separates it from the Daibutsu... but its atmosphere is really enjoyable with a host family who doesn't hesistate to stay with the travellers and who offers you the opportunity of spending a friendly evening the feet heated by the Kotetsu, a hot table, before sleeping in a traditionnal room in a futon. The price is expensive, 3000 ¥ for a night, but it really worth it and most of the hostels offer the same prices in Kamakura. You can check-in from 3:00 p.m and you have to check-out arount 10:00 a.m.
To conclude, the 2-days visit of Kamakura is really interesting and during these two days, you will be able to see a lot of historical and impressive places for a reasonnable price if you are coming from Tokyo. The trip cost 8000 ¥ for the transportation, the food (bentos and restaurants sometimes) and the night. However, more than 2 days of visit could turn out to be a little fastidious: unless you are fond of shinotism, bouddhism or architecture, it is possible to grow tired from all the temples and shrines which finally seem to look like the same at the end of the day... A little walk on the upper parts of the city or on the beach is recommended in this city which is, at least during the winter break, very quiet and relaxing.
Marièke POULAT
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